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Description

Diagonale is a slouchy structural Hat worked entirely in garter stitch on the bias. The top of the Hat features two corners that are seamed to form two flaps, which are then stitched together so they come to a point at the top of the Hat.

Availability

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Support

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Yarn
100g/361yd/330m
Handdyed 4ply or sport weight yarn

Needles & Notions
Pair 3mm/UK11/US2½ straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch marker as necessary
Tapestry needle

Sample details
Shown in WoolWorxx BFL Fingering [390yd/357m per 100g; 100% Bluefaced Leicester]

Shown in size 23in/58.5cm on model with 21.5in/54.5cm circumference head

Gauge
24 sts x 48 rows to 4in/10cm on 3mm needles over Garter St.

Sizes
To fit sizes: 16 [18, 21, 23] in/ 40.75 [45.75, 53.25, 58.5] cm
Finished size: 14 [16, 18, 20] in/ 35.5 [40.75, 45.75, 50.75] cm
Not sure which size to make? Check my handy size and measuring guide!

Skills required
Garter stitch

Increases & Decreases

Mattress Stitch for Garter Stitch

Abbreviations

K: knit

st(s): stitch(es)

kfb: knit into the front and back of the next stitch

kbf: knit into the back then front of the next stitch

k2tog: knit next 2sts together

ssk: slip next 2sts knitwise, then knit these 2 sts together through the backs of the loops

k3tog: knit next 3sts together

Pattern notes

This pattern is deceptively simple – it’s simply a length of garter stitch worked flat with the corners stitched together! What makes it special is that it’s worked on the bias. This Hat can be made in any gauge, in any yarn. And it’s perfect for beginners.

How to

With main yarn and your choice of cast-on method, cast on 3sts. Ideally leave a tail of around 9 [10, 11, 12] in/ 23 [25.5, 28, 30.5] cm

Body pt1

Foundation Row: K1, knit into the front then back then front of next stitch, K1 [5sts]

Row 1: Knit all sts

Row 2: K1, Kfb, K1, Kbf, K1 [7sts]

Row 3: Knit all sts

Row 4: K1, Kfb, K to last 2sts, Kbf, K1

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until work measures 7 [8, 9, 10] in/17.75 [20.25, 22.75, 25.5] cm along an edge from the cast on point, ending after a plain knit row.

Body pt2

Row 1: K1, Kfb, K to last 3sts, k2tog, K1

Row 2: Knit all sts

This sets up the bias pattern, and the width of our strip of knitting will remain constant.

Repeat these two rows until work measures approximately 16 [18, 20, 22] in/ 40.75 [45.75, 50.75, 56] cm along the longest edge, ending after a plain knit row.

Body pt3

Row 1: K1, ssk, K to last 3sts, k2tog, K1

Row 2: Knit all sts

Repeat these two rows until 5sts remain ending after a plain knit row then:

Final Row: K1, k3tog, K1.

Break yarn and draw through remaining 3sts to close.

Ideally leave a tail of around 9 [10, 11, 12] in/ 23 [25.5, 28, 30.5] cm

Finishing

Fold work in half length-ways.

Using the yarn tails, and using the mattress stitch method for garter stitch, close each side seam.

Bring together the top corners and secure them with a few stitches. You can also turn this Hat inside out for an envelope style finish.

Weave in all ends. A gentle wash and blocking is recommended.

Custom any gauge version

Should you wish to use a different yarn at a different gauge, you’ll need to know your head measurement.

Armed with your head size, you’ll want to subtract 2in/5cm or 12% - this allows for negative ease (how much smaller the finished size is compared to the to fit size) and it’s negative ease that helps keep the Hat on your head.

Now that you have the finished size of your Hat, divide that by 2 – this will tell us how wide the strip of knitting needs to be. Remember that this strip is garter stitch worked on the bias, so the width of the strip is the same as the length of the work in Body Pt1. So you’re simply going to work that section until you reach your custom fit measurement! You’ll then follow the directions as given in the pattern.

This also means that you can custom fit this Hat beyond the sizes included in the pattern, even with a totally different yarn gauge.

Example: your head size is 21in, and so an ideal finished size is 18in. That means our strip of garter stitch needs to be 9in wide.

Simply knit the length of garter stitch until it’s double the Hat length and voila! Finish as above.